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Bombay Duck London

October 19, 2010 | Organic Glam So Oud

One of the great, magic-enhancing mysteries of the fragrance world is of course that we scent-lovers can never find out exactly what’s in a perfume.  It’s Above Top Secret info, for commercial reasons.  (Fragrance, unlike other areas of cosmetics, is not bound by the need to label anything but any potential allergens – limonene, geraniol [...]

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October 13, 2010 | Plum by Mary Greenwell

Tell me:  what lengths have you gone to, to get your hands on a fragrance…?  Continents scoured…?  Begging letters sent…?   Pilgrimages made…?  Well, so consumed was The Scent Critic with the desire for Plum by Mary Greenwell – the debut fragrance from one of the world’s top make-up pros – that yesterday, she left behind [...]

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October 12, 2010 | Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia

For The Scent Critic, this has been the week of The Big Autumn Clothes Swap.  When the linen shirts and pants get stowed for the winter, and it is time to retrieve the Wolford Velvet Deluxes from their lingerie bag, and uncover the havoc any moths may have wreaked on the cashmere collection.  (This year [...]

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July 23, 2010 | Clarins Eau des Jardins

One of the big whinges among scentophiles is the way some fragrances are ‘dumbed down’ (i.e. changed) by perfume houses.  There are whispers of cost-cutting, of ‘damaging the brand’;  the words ‘sacrilege’ and even ‘travesty’ are banded about a lot.  But a chat recently with Sofia Grojsman, creator of Trésor and Calyx (among other global [...]

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May 25, 2010 | Liz Earle Botanical Essence Eau de Parfum No. 1

Liz Earle inspires an almost cult-like religious devotion among her beauty flock.  Products like Cleanse & Polish have been elevated to the Beauty Hall of Fame – and one of the key factors in their phenomenal success has always been the attractive botanical smells, because Liz herself is so ‘scent-aware’.  It was probably only a [...]

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May 17, 2010 | Diptyque Vetyverio

Perfumer Jean Kerleo – for years the resident ‘nose’ at Jean Patou – once shared with me a trick for conjuring up vetiver, in your memory.  ‘Close your eyes,’ he said, ‘and imagine opening a sack of potatoes.’  Earthy.  Slightly damp.  Even a little dirty, maybe.  Since then, I’ve never smelled a sack of potatoes [...]

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